STEP 1

Instead of using a strip of wood, this technique will use ordinary masking tape to create the superelevation. Start by cutting the ¾ inch masking tape in half length-wise with an X-Acto knife (strips of 3/8 inch wide tape). It is probably easiest doing this when the tape is still on the cardboard spool. The tape needs to have good adhesion, but you won’t need to tack the tape down in the way you might for paint masking. Cutting the tape in this way will make it easier to follow the curve.

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STEP 2

The next step is to work out roughly how many layers of tape would be equivalent equal the scale 6 inches of superelevation mentioned earlier. To save you the hassle of piling on multiple layers to work out how much you’ll need, I’ve done the calculation for you. In N scale use 8 layers of tape, and in HO scale use 14 layers of tape to reach the 6 inch elevation.

STEP 3

Decide where you want the transition to begin at each end of the curve to reach the point of maximum superelevation. Use a felt tipped pen or pencil to mark the spots. A quick bit of advice; it is not generally a good idea to begin or finish a superelevation under a turnout as this can result in derailment issues. Instead, choose a spot just as the easement into the curve starts. Be aware that straight track sections are not superelevated, so the transition shouldn’t begin there.

STEP 4

Just as with a real railroad, smooth transition into the highest point of superelevation is important. The train should ease into it, to avoid potential problems. You can divide the length of the easement by 8 for N scale, or by 14 for HO scale staggering the distance from the edge of each layer of tape added (see diagram). If you are using bigger curves e.g. a 28 inch radius or more in HO scale, you could apply a one inch stagger. This would give 14 inch run before reaching the scale 6 inch maximum superelevation.

If you stagger the layers at equal distances, the transitions approaching up towards and out of the maximum superelevation will be smooth, just as they would be on a real railroad. This will also save time and frustration in rasping or sanding stripwood.

STEP 5

Using adhesive and brads fasten down the inside-curve piece(s) of roadbed.

STEP 6

Mark the OUTSIDE (not inside) edge of the roadbed with another piece of roadbed. Take the first layer of tape to begin your first mark. Take care to lay the 3/8 inch tape along the outer edge of the outside track (see diagram), not along the center line of the easement or curve. The objective is to raise the outer edge of the outside rail, without raising the center of the ties. Then run the layer to the other mark pressing it firmly in place ensuring a solid surface for the next layer.